Historically Hip Paris

In the 18th century, under the reign of Louis XIV, France set the cultural standard for Europe and much of the Western world. In architecture, cuisine and fashion, as well as literature, romance and music, Paris was the measure of up-to-par urbanity.

Four hundred years later, Paris is still very much a purveyor of global hipdom.

For experienced European travelers, Paris may not be the quaint paradise it is often portrayed to be in vintage American cinema. But one needs to discover the city's many hidden treasures – from museums to cafés to chic boutiques, which abound in the City of Light.

Just as it was over 100 years ago, this Jacobin jewel is a place where one can witness trends in the making or keep their finger on the pulse in an atmosphere of traditional European charm. Paris, you see, always keeps one foot in the past while taking giant leaps into the future.

At the turn of the 19th century, for example, the Eiffel Tower, as the modernist Pompidou Centre a century later, was considered a monstrosity.

Today, both epitomize and complement the traditional as well as the modernistic Parisian cityscape. One is apt to find more frozen-in-time, bucolic corners of Europe, but none that capture the best of both worlds more so than Paris.

One can spend the day scoring the latest fashion threads or train-spotting tight new tunes to spin at home, then dine in an old brasserie, followed by an all-night clubbing frenzy in a plethora of venues covering every global genre of the past 50 years.

As the blazing flame of Europe's first rave generation flickers into maturity, progressive house, techno and trance music is giving way to down-tempo chill-out cafes and lounges where DJs spinning as such is "de rigeur." Many have in-house DJs who produce CDs of their home-spun mixes for purchase.

Yesterday's Edith Piaf continues to co-exist with the likes of Daft Punk. Old School jazz clubs and Latin lounges exist side by side with clubs featuring French hip-hop and house DJs.

Like everything else, the French DJs add their own element of style and flair that is distinctively French. The "French touch," as they proudly refer to it, is sample-friendly and pays homage to everything from ethnic vibes to filtered disco to jazzy grooves. This hybrid house, known as French house, can range from cheesy to cutting edge. If you wish to stray from known territory and formulaic predictability, French house music will seduce you.

Top French DJs who have made their mark on the transcontinental scale include Daft Punk, DJ Dimitri, Laurent Garnier, St. Germaine, and Air.

One cannot talk about France without mentioning its fine foods. Thankfully, France has not succumbed to global fusion cuisine. Yes, you can find fast-food outlets on the Champs-Élysées, alas. But in Paris, where health mania and political correctness has not yet caught up, you can still enjoy a fine traditional meal with the intoxicating "French touch," such as heavy sauces, and vast amounts of good wine – for lunch.

From cafes and bistros to brasseries and haute cuisine to fine dining establishments, French cooking is nothing less than a panoply of pleasure for the palate. >

As with everything else in Paris, every minutia of detail is paid with utmost respect. This equates into the freshest ingredients and quality over quantity. Sure indications of the richness and indulgence of French cuisine are demonstrated by such staples as foie gras, maigret de canard, and rich soufflés. Top this off with the finest wines in the world, and you get the picture.

Rootless Cosmopolitan Guide to Paris

Vital Info: Country Code: 33, City Code: 1

Currency Exchange: US$1 = 7.63 French Francs

Lylo – The most comprehensive listings of live entertainment, available at most newsstands.

Pariscope – Check out the entertainment listings in English in the back.

Paris Atlas par arrondissement – by Michelin (michelin-travel.com). To the unaccustomed, Paris can be a confusing city. Even many locals can't find streets without this Thomas Guide equivalent.

Hotel Esmerelda – 4, rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre, 5eme Arrondissement. (Metro St.-Michel). Tel: 43 54 19 20. Bird's eye view of Notre Dame.

Hotel de la Place des Vosges – 12, rue de Biraque, 4eme Arrondissement (Metro Bastille). Tel: 42 72 60 46.

Hotel Eldorado – 18, rue des Dames, 17eme Arrondissement (Metro Place de Clichy). Tel: 45 22 35 21. Cheaply chic.

Hotel du Danube – 58, rue Jacob, 6eme Arrondissement. Tel: 42 60 34 70. Quaint hotel in picturesque St. Germain-des-Pres neighborhood, in the Latin Quarter. It was home to General Sikorsky, head of the Polish Government in exile in France between September 1939 and June 1940.

Costes Hotel – 239, rue St. Honore, 1er Arrondissement. Tel: 42 44 50 00. Celebrity chic boutique hotel.

Hotel de Vendome – 1, Place Vendome. 1er Arrondissement. 18th century building that formerly served as the Texas Embassy, it is equipped with cutting-edge gadgetry such as videophones.

L'Hotel – 13, rue des Beaux-Arts, 6eme Arrondissement (Metro St.-Germain-des-Pres). Tel: 44 41 99 00. The place where Oscar Wilde died, it is fully equipped with a cellar swimming pool.

The Ritz – 15, Place Vendome. 1er Arrondissement (Metro Concorde). Tel: 43 16 30 30. The former haunt of Hemingway, Coco Chanel and Proust, among others.

Hotel Meurice – 228, rue de Rivoli, 1er Arrondissement (Metro Tuileries). Tel: 44 58 10 10. Queen Victoria was a regular here.

Le Dauphin – 167, rue St. Honore, 1er Arrondissement. Tel: 42 60 40 11. This country-style bistro with a touch of Art Nouveau offers such classic staples as blood sausages with fowl, foie gras and one-year cured ham.

Ambassade D'Auvergne – 22, rue du Grenier Saint-Lazare. 3eme Arrondissement (Metro Rambuteau) (ambassade-auvergne.com) Tel: 01 42 7231 22. Traditional setting and excellent French provençale cuisine; the garlic/cheese mashed potatoes are legendary.

Laperouse – 51, Quai des Grands-Augustins, 6eme Arrondissement. Dating back to the 18th Century, this historic romantic dining establishment offers bucolic views of the Seine amidst Old World decor. The duck for two is delectable, and be sure to try the soufflé.

It would be impossible to name all the great restaurants in this column, but try the one at the Hotel Bristol, 112, rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore, 8eme Arrondisement. Tel: 53 43 43 00. For the ultimate in gastronomic indulgence, set aside a few hours and experience the multiple courses of gourmet French cuisine. The game birds are especially excellent.

Café de Flore – 172, Blvd. Saint.Germain (Metro, Saint-Germain-des-Pres. Tel: 45 48 55 26. Since 1913, the place to hang out; spot for intellectuals. It still retains its pre-war charm.

Le Bonaparte – 42, rue Bonaparte, 6eme Arrondissement (Metro Saint Germain-des-Pres). Tel: 43 26 42 81. Great outdoor café on a cobblestone square across from a church, specializing in Calvados, cheeses, omelettes, sandwiches and specialty desserts. Try the rhubarb pie.

Georges Bar, Centre Pompidou. Tel: 44 78 47 99. Imbibe atop the ultra modernist Pompidou Centre with the best views of the city. Amidst Land of the Lost meets Star Trek decor, a DJ spins down-tempo grooves in the chicest DJ setup on the planet.

Finding a late-night snack can be problematic once the bars close at 2 a.m. Your best bet is to hit a creperie stand. There are two excellent ones on Rue Oberkampf, down from Café Charbon. They are open until 5-6 a.m.

Batofar – Quai Francois-Mauriac, 13eme Arrondissement (Metro Bibliotheque). Tel: 01 56 29 10 20. Located on a retro barge on the Seine, it is simply the best venue in town for live DJ acts.

Le Queen – 102, Ave. des Champs-Elysees, 8eme Arrondissement (George V Metro). (queen.fr). The largest club in Paris, mostly gay hangout, this club goes off, with people dancing on the tables to the latest superstar DJs.

Le Gibus – 18, rue du Faubourg du Temple, 11eme Arrondissement (Metro Republique). Tel: 47 00 78 88. One of the best venues in Paris for DJs; funkier side of House can be heard.

L'Enfer – 34, rue du Depart, 15eme Arrondissement. (Metro Montparnasse) (enfer.fr) Tel: 55 34 73 60. Emphasis on Tech House.

Le Balajo – 9, rue de Lappe, 11eme Arrondissement (Metro Bastille). Tel: 47 00 07 87. Oldest continuing nightclub in Paris, it evokes images of pre- and post-war Paris.

Barrio Latino – 46/48, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 12eme Arrondissement. (Metro Bastille) Tel: 55 78 84 75. DJ spins salsa music amidst Victorian bordello/gothic decor.

Buddha Bar – 8, rue d' Anglas, 8eme Arrondissement. Tel: 53 05 90 00. One of the best parties in town. The place is alive with a DJ spinning ethnic fusion grooves famous the world over.

Cabaret – 2, Place du Palais Royal, 1er Arrondissement. Tel: 58 62 56 25. Newly opened venue across from the Louvre.

Café Charbon – 109, rue Oberkampf. 11eme Arrondissement. Tel: 43 57 55 13. Boisterous bohemian fin-de-siecle dance hall cum local watering hole is a sure bet on any given night of the week.

La Fabrique – 53, rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine, 11eme Arrondissement (Metro Bastille). Tel: 43 07 67 07. Eclectically minimalist chic decor with a touch of old Paris, elegantly casual and unpretentious. DJ spins French House until 5 a.m.

Mixer Bar, 23, rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 4eme Arrondissement. Tel: 48 87 55 44. Wax – 15, rue Daval, 11eme Arrondissement (Metro Bastille). Tel: 40 21 16 16.

Bar Hemingway, Ritz Hotel (see address above). Reportedly the place where Ernest Hemingway ordered a round of martinis after helping Allied troops liberate the Ritz Hotel in 1944, it still retains Old World intrigue and mystique.

Most every shop is closed on Sundays. Most establishments close around 7 p.m., with DJ shops staying open a little later.

If you're stretched for time, a good concentration of DJ shops can be found on Rue Keller (Metro Ledru-Rollin); otherwise, the following are among the top of the pick. Most shops close around 8 p.m., but call first.

Bastille Vinyl – 4, rue Sedaine (near the corner of Place de Bastille), 11eme Arrondissement (Metro Bastille). Tel: 43 55 81 45. Reputedly the best place to hit for DJs in the know.

Club News International Disquaire – 37, rue St. Honore. Tel: 40 13 99 70. A comprehensive selection of the latest vinyl from throughout Europe. It is even sorted by specific flavors, like Happy House, etc. The shop clerks are good at steering you in the right direction. It is a good place to score some tight French grooves as well. Check out the Italian section.

Vibe Station – 57, rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, 11eme Arrondissement (Metro Bastille). Tel: 01 44 74 54 18. Great spot to score the latest French house promos. It also stocks good selection of UK Garage and other British imports. Ask for more obscure French labels under the counter. The only downside is the lack of personal listening stations. In order to listen to a record, you must wait your turn and let the guy behind the counter play it for you.

Tracks' Addict – 52, rue d'Argout, 2eme Arrondissement (Metro Etienne Marcel). Tel: 01 42 21 02 72. Stocks a good selection of new releases from UK and France, with a sprinkling of old school classics from NY.

Colette – 213, rue St. Honore, 1er Arrondissement (Metro Tuileries). Tel: 55 35 33 90. This lifestyle store stocks a good selection of cutting-edge shoes, clothes, accessories and selected design-oriented gadgets. Be sure to revive at the water bar downstairs.

Kiliwatch – 54, rue Tiquetonne, 2eme Arrondissement. Tel: 42 21 17 37. Retro boutique, with just about everything; great place to score latest Parisian trainers.

Mandarin Duck – 51, rue Bonaparte, (Metro Saint Germain-des-Pres). Tel: 43 26 68 38. The place to pick up designer utility chic luggage.

Ron Orb, 39, rue Etienne Marcel, 1er Arrondissement. Tel: 40 28 09 33. Cutting-edge high-tech French fashion.

Porte de Montreuil in the 20eme Arrondissement (Metro Porte de Montreuil). Saturdays & Sundays 7 a-5p. The best flea market to score vintage clothing and Art Deco goods.

Of course, Paris has art and historical museums that are the best in the world. It is impossible for one to recommend how much time should be committed to these museums, because there is never too little or too much time that one can spend in soaking in all of these historical treasures.

There is no shortage of traditional guides dedicated to mapping out the locations of these world-renowned cultural watering holes. Be sure to check out the catacombs (43 22 47 63).

Diagonal Europa – 13, rue Victor-Cousin, 5eme Arrondissement (Metro Luxembourg). Tel: 40 46 01 21. The oldest existing movie house in Paris dates back to 1907 and features cutting-edge international films that stray away from the mainstream.

Copyright 2001 by United Press International. All rights reserved.