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Gaultier Fetes Smoking, Saab Channels Gaudi in Paris Couture

Gaultier Fetes Smoking, Saab Channels Gaudi in Paris Couture

Wednesday, 04 July 2018 12:37 PM

PARIS (AP) — A tardy Naomi Campbell triggered a dangerous media scrum as she entered Jean-Paul Gaultier's couture ode to smoking in Paris Wednesday.

It raised the heat in the already scorching atmosphere on the final day of Paris fall-winter shows.

Temperatures reached heatwave levels and sweating fashionistas fanned themselves with Gaultier-branded fans.

Here are some highlights of the couture collections.

GAULTIER'S ODE TO SMOKING

It's been banned in public — but smoking evidently has not been outlawed as a source of fashion inspiration.

The unusual homage by Jean-Paul Gaultier to one of the world's dirtiest, and most glamorous, habits made for a typically tongue-in-cheek collection of 73 varied looks.

A black bison tuxedo jacket had the words "Gaultier Smoking" emblazoned on the front.

It was a play on words on the French translation on "tuxedo," which is "le smoking" — and one that continued in myriad black and white deconstructions of tuxedo looks.

A surreal variation on the red Fez hat from Morocco — a country famed for its shisha pipes — also made an appearance. It covered the face, and from eye slits, the red tassels seemed to hang down like tears.

Tulle mouth masks followed white plume boas representing plumes of smoke.

But the final creation — a giant silver bridal veil — was the most creative look. Its shimmering, five-meter (16-foot) train was so diaphanous, it licked the air and evoked rising smoke.

Pedro Almodovar's muse, actress Rossy de Palma, applauded from the front row.

ELIE SAAB

Elie Saab took his itinerant couture inspiration to Barcelona this season.

The famed Modernist architecture of Antoni Gaudi — and its organic lines — were the focus of many of the Lebanese designer's gowns.

Oversize rounded shoulders, which were sometimes dramatically raised from the body, were a new silhouette variation on the house's bread-and-butter cinched waist looks.

The industrious Saab couture atelier had got to work to weave the signature crystals, sequins and pearls together to — as the program notes put it — depict "the sinuosity of organic forms."

The swirling stone reliefs of the Musee des Arts Decoratifs venue, inside the Louvre palace, accentuated the clothes' architectural lines.

PARIS FASHION GETS TOUGHER ON PRESS

Certain Paris Fashion Week houses pride themselves on careful image control and restrictive press access.

As privately held brands, this is their right — although it can sometimes be excessive and lead to accusations of elitism.

Invitations are sent to carefully selected journalists and buyers, and some houses prefer smaller venues. The system is thought to increase the mystery and cachet of the clothes.

Like Balenciaga, Maison Margiela under John Galliano is one of many with a highly strict policy.

For the second season Maison Margiela extended their media clampdown to all photographic agencies, bar two, sending out a note explaining they would be handling the photography mainly "in-house" for Wednesday's morning show.

The unusual move means that almost all images of the couture are now under the direct control of the Maison Margiela house.

Thomas Adamson can be followed at www.twitter.com/ThomasAdamson_K

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A tardy Naomi Campbell triggered a dangerous media scrum as she entered Jean-Paul Gaultier's couture ode to smoking in Paris Wednesday.It raised the heat in the already scorching atmosphere on the final day of Paris fall-winter shows.Temperatures reached heatwave levels and...
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Wednesday, 04 July 2018 12:37 PM
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